While all this is happening the float (4) off on the side is rising and falling with the water. The float is connected to a valve (5) that lets water into the tank when down, and stops the flow of water when up. The float should stop rising and shut the water off about an inch below the top of the overflow tube (6) .

All of this works together to make a single flush.

• Is anything visibly broken?
• Is the flapper all the way down? Did it get stuck?
• Is the chain on the flapper caught?
• Is the water above the overflow pipe?

These questions will narrow the problem down to three parts, the flapper, the float, or the chain. Anything visibly broken  should be taken care of immediately. Otherwise turn off your water and get ready to do some fixing!

Flapper and Lift Chain

Probably the most frequent cause of running toilets is the flapper. Take a good look at it after a flush as see what it’s doing. Is it getting caught on something or is it just not fitting in the hole anymore? Are there any tears or deteriorated parts? If it looks like the flapper is the culprit then this is an easy fix.

Start by turning off the water supply valve, removing the tank cover, and flushing the toilet to drain water from the tank. Then remove the flapper from the bowl by removing the back half from the pegs on the overflow pipe, and removing the chain from flush lever. Once you’ve removed the flapper valve take it down to your local Koopman Lumber store to ensure you’re purchasing the correct kit, and then take it home to reinstall. Start by attaching the back of the flapper to the pegs on either side of the overflow tube, and then attach the lift chain to the flush lever. Secure the flapper valve and turn the water back on. Your toilet should be back in working order now! When the tank fills up, give it a flush just to ensure everything is working perfectly, then replace the tank lid and enjoy your functioning toilet.

Float and Water Intake Assembly

Sometimes the float will need to be adjusted if the water is too high (and draining into the overflow pipe). Most filler assemblies will have a small screw on the side of the float that is adjusted to raise or lower the float, or have a clip on the side that stops it in a particular place. You will want to adjust the float so that the water comes up to an inch below the opening of the overflow pipe.

Shut off the water to the toilet and flush the water out. Then place a plastic container under the water supply hose and unscrew the hose from the tank body. Once the water is drained out use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the lock nut from the shank. With the nut removed you should be able to pull the whole assembly up and out of the toilet. The tank will drain into the plastic bin, and you will want to place the old assembly in the bin as well as it may continue to drain. Take the new fill valve and adjust the height to best fit the tank (usually about 1 inch below the top of the tank) and place the threaded end into the tank. Thread the lock nut by hand under the tank and use your slip joint pliers to give it another quarter turn. Screw the water supply hose back onto the fill valve shank. Replace the reflow tube into the overflow tube, making sure it doesn’t extend below the water line. Most kits will come with an angled plastic piece with a metal clip that you can feed the reflow tube into (after cutting it down) to ensure this isn’t a problem.

Once this is all set turn on the water and you’re good to go! Give it a practice flush to ensure everything attached properly.